Publications: Counsel's Table: Nick's: Where have you been?

When I was a young associate, clients would just hire you or not hire you. RFPs were things purchasing departments used to buy typewriters. And we used to love it when the sky turned green and the tornado warnings sounded. We loved it because that meant that we had to leave our tall building and take shelter in a basement. You know me, safety first.

Our basement was Nick's Fishmarket, in the space under what is now the Chase Tower. Back then though, it was a Don Draper hangout if there ever was one. We went with my bosses, Mike Coffield and Rich Ungaretti, who were the original "Mad Men." We drank Lillet and ate Ungaretti Sweet and Sour Fish Stew.

Nick's was over-the-top fancy. Nick's was expensive and simply the best, with impeccable tuxedo-clad waiters and big, heavy black leather booths. Sometimes those tornado warnings would last all day and, just to be safe, well into the night.

After way too long Nick's is back downtown. At the Merchandise Mart now, which somehow is perfect. It's not the old "Mad Men" Nick's, it's newer, fresher and maybe even better.

The old Nick's spirit still haunts the joint, but, like lots of things from the late '80s, it had some work done. The new space is sleek, modern and as classy as the designer furniture, baths and kitchens in the showrooms in this grand Chicago landmark. The bar is huge, spacious, slung with flat screens and marked by icy cool, blue glass walls. It is open and well-lit - definitely not in a basement.

The old Nick's is still there. The way you are greeted, like you are the only guest that matters. The service is effortless and perfect. A little of it is there in the prices, but actually they are probably about the same as they were in the '80s, so they seem a little more manageable today. And most importantly it is still there in the food.

The signature lobster bisque is hot, buttery and velvety with just enough sherry. If it weren't a classy place you'd lick the bowl. Black and Blue Ahi is back too - seared sushi-grade tuna dusted with magic Cajun powder and wasabi, ginger and soy hot mustard - a lot going on, but all the flavors work together.

The Flaming Spinach and Artichoke appetizer is new, which, with the help of a little 151 rum, blazes tableside and melts into a hearty balanced dip. Nick's take on fried shrimp is panko-breaded jumbo shrimp that is as light and airy as Tokyo tempura, served with a chili garlic sauce that mixes heat and sweet.

Nick's is not a dieter's paradise, so if you are whiny about butter don't go, or if you do, don't go with me, but there are plenty of salad options. We tried the Legendary Larry, which came with huge, boiled shrimp, but surprised us with regular old iceberg lettuce and feta that seemed more processed than crumbled.

There are at least half-a-dozen fresh grilled fish options and an equal number of preparation options. We went with tilapia in a parmesan crust and browned butter sauce. The butter was delicious, the fish fresh, but a little dry, maybe even a little overcooked.

Although tempted by the Lobster Mac and Cheese/Defibrillator combo, we opted for the lobster and shrimp risotto, which was plenty rich and big enough to feed a small village. It was chock-full of medium shrimp with a whole broiled lobster tail in the middle, melted asiago cheese and chopped spinach.

Then there is the Dover sole. This is a Nick's classic, expertly deboned tableside with the double-spoon method by someone who knew what she was doing. The preparation is a show, but the main event is when it is plated surrounded by fingerling potatoes and roasted zucchini. The fish is light, moist and flaky and served with drawn butter, which is great, but hardly necessary.

There's always room for dessert and that room should be reserved for Chocolate Molten Cake, which, like much of Nick's fare, is done in the perfect old-school tradition, unhampered by a celebrity chef of the month vision. It's warm-crusted chocolate cake with hot gooey chocolate sauce inside and white chocolate chip ice cream around it.

I like this new Nick'sand you will, too. It has managed to take nearly all of the classic tastes, service and feel of a great old-world place and fit it into a sleek, linear modern space. It is efficient, unhurried, classy and fun. They need parking, but Nick's is back.

Lagniappe: While at the Mart walk to the other side and stop into the Artisan Cellar, one of the nicest little wine shops in the city. Greg will hook you up with some great bottles that are well-priced and delicious. They double as a café with perfectly grilled paninis and fresh and inventive salads all at about $8 each. Top it off with some dark chocolate and a latte, maybe open a bottle of wine. Limited indoor seating in a small perfectly cluttered shop with floor-to-ceiling bottles and a really nice outdoors area for summer.

Pleadings:
Nick's Fishmarket Grill & Bar
222 W. Merchandise Mart Plaza, Suite 135
Chicago; ( 312) 621-0200
Court costs:
Appetizers: $6-$13
Entrees: $11-$37
Verdict: Four gavels

Reprinted with permission from Law Bulletin Publishing Company