Publications: Counsel's Table: Jimmy's neighborhood

We got my son one of those Chicagoneighborhood map posters for Christmas. I almost didnʹt give it to him because it is such a cool layout of all our neighborhoods — Morgan Park to Edison Park to Edgewater and everything in between. It got me thinking about food, which takes little provocation, and all the neighborhood joints in this great city of ours. Some people visit major league ballparks on their ʺbucket list.ʺ How about a meal in every neighborhood? Now, there is a goal.

University Village is growing like crazy. The closing of Maxwell Street was a dark day, but I have to admit, the revitalization of this neighborhood is something special and you can still get a Jimmyʹs pork chop sandwich just off the Taylor Street on-ramp to the Ryan. But Jimmyʹs neighborhood has a new mayor in town: Jimmy Bannos and his BFF Scott Harris have brought their considerable talents to South Racine Avenue. Kitty-corner from the UIC Pavilion, they recently opened Salatinoʹs and Dough Boys, its sidekick pizza joint.

Walking into Salatinoʹs, you might as well be walking into your Aunt Angelinaʹs dining room. The busy, happily cramped space practically screams old-school Italian welcome. Nearly every inch of wall space is covered with what I assume are Connie Corleoneʹs wedding pictures, but could be from any Italian family scrapbook. Red-checkered tablecloths, naturally. You are welcomed by people who are happy you came and, it must be working, because our waitress (Meredith, she was great) told us that they were turning tables over four times on Saturdays.

The meal starts, as all meals should, with a teeming basket of warm, crusty bread and good drinks.

The place was full of families, the kids with red gravy-stained cheeks, the old folks, like us, the yuppies, the whole gamut.

The menu is what you expect from an Italian family joint and it didnʹt disappoint; neither, however, did it overwhelm. The calamari — offered only fried — was very light and not greasy. The sausage and peppers were good — not spectacular — could have used a little crisp on the skin and maybe more of a bite inside. The chopped salad was very good: chopped lettuce, black olives, radishes along with nice sharp slivers of cheese and good salami.

The entree menu is full of family Italian staples. Huge portions. Eggplant parm was a giant mound of fried, breaded circles of eggplant and could have used a little more parm, but it was good. The veal scaloppine was tender, thin-sliced and delicious with plenty of fresh mushrooms over egg noodles and marinara sauce. Egg noodles? To each his own.

There are lots of ways to make braciola and itʹs almost always good. Salatinoʹs take on this southern Italian classic is seasoned flank steak rolled around a cheese/parsley/herb mixture served over a plate of cavatelli in red gravy. The flank steak was cooked perfectly and flavorful and fell apart along the grain easily — expect to chew a little, but thatʹs why God gave you teeth, right?

Best in show is escarole and meatballs. The meatballs were good, the escarole was great. Hot, sautéed in plenty of garlic.

Dessert options included affogato al tartufo — a giant scoop of chocolate truffle ice cream in an oversized coffee cup that the waiter pours a hot espresso over. Delicious. All in all, a great family place with solid, dependable Italian fare. Dough Boys is the connected pizza joint and, in addition to its three-foot pie and delicious thin crust, it claims to have legit New York-style pizza and guess what? It does. If you are craving a slice, this is your place — the best East Coast pizza I have seen in town and I spent a lot of my misbegotten youth eating Jersey shore pizza, way before Snooki ruined Seaside for the rest of us.

Lagniappe: Pilsen is a 10-minute ride from downtown. Any of you have ever gone there for lunch? No time like the present and not too many places as good and cheap as Nuevo Leon on 18th Street, a few blocks west of Halsted. You know itʹs good because there were three separate tables of cops eating lunch when we went. And it is good. Try the filet Neuvo Leone — strip steak cooked in magic sauce with thin-sliced potatoes; or fajitas with homemade refried beans and tortillas. No credit, so bring cash, but you wonʹt need much in this perfect neighborhood joint.

Travelerʹs tip: Milwaukee used to be predictable — the Pfister and German food. Not anymore. Check out the Iron Horse Hotel, right next to the Harley Museum (Iron Horse, get it?) This 1907 renovated factory is like a W without the attitude — lots of exposed brick and ductwork; a sleek Harley lair where you expect to see Dennis Hopper lounging on one of the worn leather couches in the giant lobby or the library that doubles as the restaurant. Itʹs just a couple minutes from the casino and a ton of authentic Mexican restaurants in this Walkerʹs Point neighborhood. Try the carne asada at La Fuente.

Pleadings:
Salatinoʹs
626 S. Racine Ave.
Chicago; 312-226-9300

Court costs:
Appetizers: $3 to $11
Entrees: $10 to $20

Verdict: 2 1/2 gavels

Reprinted with permission from Law Bulletin Publishing Company