Publications: Counsel's Table: Art on a Dish

If you can't fly to the Loire Valley, just amble a mile or so up Franklin Street and enjoybeing greeted by Kiki at Kiki's French Bistro. Kiki's is a portal to a simpler time and place. In a nondescript building off the beaten track, Kiki's opens into a tiny bar, serving an impressive array of big French reds by the inexpensive glass, and turns the corner into the French countryside of 1950. Rough-hewn wooden beams, framed windows and exposed, unfinished wood throughout paints the scene with a subtle but persistent call to slow down, eat, talk and leave the city for a little bit.

Kiki will greet you, as he has for more than 20 years. Classically trained at Maxine's in Paris, his kitchen prepares a shockingly broad menu of meats and fishes in classic French style that are accessible and affordable.

From the bartender who smiles hello, to the waiter's assistant, everyone is happy that you came and eager to help you navigate the menu or offer suggestions.

After a couple of bites, you understand why they are so happy - they get to eat here all the time.

The house-made pâté comes in two big slices, one a velvety creamy dark, rich liver, and the other coarse and full of pistachios. It is served with tiny cornichon pickles, a dollop of pickled cabbage and mustards with country white toast.

Escargot comes six to an order and hot and drowned in bubbling butter, garlic, shallot and parsley. Some people wrinkle their nose at the thought of eating snails. I say, bring those people with so you can eat their share, too. Escargot are tender little bites that, perfectly cooked, have a consistency somewhere between shrimp and calamari - overcooked is somewhere between calamari and a tire. These were perfect. Don't forget to use the bread to sop up the butter sauce. We had to try the French onion soup and were rewarded by a traditional crock of rich beef nectar, teeming with translucent onions and topped with crusty bread and a heaping portion of bubbling melted gruyere cheese.

Entrées, even at lunch, number about 30, not including the half-dozen specials. The selection process was harder than responding to those damn RFPs that are corporate America's revenge for increasing billable hour rates. Secure, however, in the knowledge that we would be back, we passed on the duck confit, lamb stew and scallops and went basic.

The steak pomme frite was as good as it gets: thinly pounded, yet still cooked pink inside and served with skinny, crunchy fries.

The salmon was pan-seared, perfectly, crisply finished, moist and not a hint of fishiness, served over a bed of diced turnips, carrots and lentils in a creamy wine reduction with sautéed spinach. It was art on a dish and good to the last bite.

The crab cake was meaty, crisp and served with a light mustard sauce over spinach and sun-dried tomatoes; it was firm without overdoing the bread stuffing to hold it together, and, like everything here, well-thought out from the complementary flavors to the simple and artful presentation.

Coq au vin is the quintessential dish in country French cooking and there is none better than at Kiki's. Two hearty chicken legs and attached thigh portions, served stew style in a rich brown wine reduction gravy with carrots, pearl onions and potatoes.

The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, and best eaten by raking it off with a fork. But, depending on the company, don't be afraid to use your hands. What is the point of opposable thumbs if they go unused?

Dessert selection at dinner is a sort of reverent time. Sadly at lunch, without afternoon naps on our agenda, we had to key it down a note, but still managed to split some crème brulee and warm blueberry bread pudding. The crème brulee starts with fresh berries, then the crust and rich pudding all the way down to a rich, creamy chocolate bottom. The bread pudding was rich and warm, served over a blueberry sauce marked with crème anglaise and oven-fresh. There is a cheese plate, too. Of course there is.

Lagniappe: I hadn't been to Navy Pier for years, but I recently got talked into going to see the tall ships. Pretty cool if you can get past the faux pirates. Arrrrgh. But the pier itself is magnificent. There are lots of places to eat and drink along the way. Riva'sis three-quarters of the way down, which is a great place for fresh seafood and a breathtaking skyline view. The soft-shell crab sandwich was fresh, big and not breaded. Oysters were fresh and cheap. Try it for a client lunch.

Travelers' Tip: I found myself in Carbondale a few weeks ago. Not a Saluki by education, or inclination, I got roped into going to Longbranch Coffee House by my vegetarian daughter (we tried to raise her right). I take back every bad thing I've ever said about vegetarian dining. With terrific pizza, nachos and breakfast (real eggs), if you find yourself at SIU, this is a great choice.

Pleadings:
Kiki's Bistro
900 N. Franklin St., Chicago
312-335-5454
Court costs:
Appetizers: $5.75 - $11.25
Entrees: $18.75 - $29.75
Verdict : 4 gavels

Reprinted with permission from Law Bulletin Publishing Company